Frequently Asked Questions

The easiest rule: matte paint = matte film, gloss paint = gloss film. That’s how you keep the “factory look” and make the protection as invisible as possible. Matte film keeps the same diffused finish as matte paint, while gloss film matches the shine and reflections of a glossy frame. If you’re unsure, check your frame under a light: sharp reflections usually mean gloss; soft, diffused reflections usually mean matte.

If you match the finish (matte on matte, gloss on gloss), the change is minimal - often barely noticeable. Most riders only notice that the frame stays “cleaner looking” over time because chips and scuffs hit the film instead of the paint. If you pick the opposite finish (for example gloss film on a matte frame), it will be more visible. That’s why we always recommend matching the film finish to your bike’s original paint finish.

Yes. The frame material (carbon) isn’t the issue - what matters is the surface finish of the paint (matte or gloss). Choose the film finish to match your frame. On carbon bikes, protection film is popular because it takes the daily hits - rock chips, cable rub, and small cosmetic scratches - so the paint stays looking fresh for longer. If your frame has lots of curves and transitions, just take your time with alignment and work in smaller sections.

Yes, no problem. Again, it’s all about the paint finish: matte paint = matte film, gloss paint = gloss film. On aluminium frames, protection film is great for real-world wear - shoe rub, stone chips, scuffs from racks, transport straps, and bikepacking bags. The biggest factor for long-term hold is surface prep (especially degreasing) and taking care of the edges during installation.

No - it won’t yellow, and we back that up with a warranty: 7 years on matte film and 10 years on gloss film. That matters because protection should stay clear and invisible for years, not become a cosmetic issue. Match the film finish to your bike’s paint, keep the install clean, and you’ll get a stable, clear look long-term.

Expect around 7-10 years, even in tough outdoor conditions. In real life, the film handles riding, dirt, rain, and regular cleaning - while protecting your paint from chips, cable rub, and abrasion. Longevity mostly comes down to installation quality (proper degreasing and good edge work) and giving the film time to fully settle after install. When it’s done right, your frame keeps that “new bike” look for years.

Yes - most riders can do it at home if they take their time and follow the steps. The biggest advantage is that each piece can be dry-fitted first (placed on the frame without peeling the backing) so you can confirm the position before you commit. Set up a clean, dust-free space, good lighting, and don’t rush. If it’s your first time, the first few pieces will feel slower - then it gets much easier.

It depends on the frame shape and your experience, but a good guideline is 1.5 to 4 hours. If it’s your first install, give yourself extra time so you’re not rushing. The fastest way is to dry-fit and layout the pieces first, then install section by section. Calm pace = cleaner result.

A stable room temperature is ideal - roughly 18-25 °C. In a cold garage, the film feels stiffer and edges take longer to settle. In very hot conditions, the film can become too soft and easier to overstretch. If the bike is cold, let it warm up indoors before you start. Stable temperature plus a clean environment makes the whole install more predictable.

Yes - if you want a clean, professional-looking install, we recommend removing the bottle cage and the wheels every time. That gives you proper access to edges, transitions, and areas around bolts where mistakes happen most often. You can install without doing this, but it’s harder, more stressful, and the finish usually isn’t as clean. If you want the “factory” result, remove those two items.

Follow the instructions step-by-step. We recommend starting with the top tube, then moving to the front area around the head tube, and then doing the down tube. In the manual, pieces are numbered - the easiest way is to install them in that exact order. Dry-fit each piece first, align it to edges and transitions, then install. Leave about a 3 mm gap between separate pieces so it looks clean and the edges have room to settle properly.

Yes - that’s one of the biggest advantages of our kits. You can place each piece on the frame without peeling the liner, confirm the position, and only then install it. That means fewer mistakes, faster orientation, and a cleaner result - especially if it’s your first time installing protection film.

Perfect adhesion starts with proper degreasing. Wash the bike, dry it completely, then degrease the areas where the film will go. Use isopropyl alcohol (IPA), or alternatively technical gasoline / denatured alcohol diluted with water. We include the correct bottle in the kit, so you have what you need. The most common reason edges lift later is invisible residue - oil, silicone, or leftover cleaners. Work in a clean, dust-free space with good lighting. Prep matters more than force.

Most bubbles are trapped air, leftover install solution, or tiny dust particles. Sometimes they happen when a piece is pressed down too quickly and air has nowhere to escape. The good news: in most cases, bubbles are fixable. Work slowly in small sections and always push air/moisture toward the nearest edge.

Technique plus lighting. Use a strong side light (shine a lamp from the side) so you can clearly see micro-bubbles and trapped moisture. Push bubbles out with the squeegee in short strokes toward the nearest edge. If you need to lift a piece you can - and if the piece has been stuck down longer (around 10-20 minutes), use a hair dryer gently so the film releases without stretching. Slow pace + side lighting is what makes it look pro.

Yes. If a piece isn’t sitting right, it’s better to lift and re-align than to force it in the wrong spot. Do it as early as possible - it’s easiest then. If it has already started to bond (about 10-20 minutes), use a hair dryer gently, peel slowly to avoid stretching, then re-align and continue squeegeeing.

Edges need extra attention. Proper degreasing, good temperature, and pushing solution out thoroughly are the basics. At the end, we recommend warming the edges lightly with a hair dryer and pressing them down so they “lock in” even better. And most importantly: after install, don’t wash the bike for at least one full week - that’s when the film fully settles and edges become rock-solid.

We don’t recommend it as the first option. Try pushing the bubble to an edge with the squeegee first. Many micro-bubbles fade as the film settles. Poking can leave a visible dot and can create a bigger issue if done incorrectly. Only consider it in rare cases, and very carefully - but in most installs it’s not needed.

We recommend no washing for at least 1 week - no pressure washer and not even a hand wash. The film needs time to settle and the edges need time to fully bond. Washing too early - especially with high pressure - can disturb fresh edges. After a week, wash as normal, just avoid blasting high pressure directly into the edges from close range.

Ideally, give the bike at least until the next day to rest so the film stabilizes and edges settle. You don’t have to wait a week to ride, but the first hours after install are the most sensitive. Best approach: install, let it sit overnight, ride normally the next day - and hold off on washing for a full week.

Yes - that’s exactly what it’s for. The film takes the daily abuse - rock chips, cable rub, minor scuffs - so your paint doesn’t. It also helps preserve resale value because the high-wear areas stay cleaner and less scratched over time.

Normal racks and straps won’t destroy the film, but dirt + vibration can cause visible scuffs on the film surface. The good news: many light marks can disappear with gentle heat - warm the film slightly and it can “heal” so the bike looks fresh again. That’s the point: the film takes wear, not your paint, so your frame can look like new for years.

Yes - bikepacking bags and straps can create dull patches and abrasion on paint over time. Protection film creates a barrier, so the bag wears the film instead of your frame. For best results, keep contact areas clean and make sure there’s no grit trapped under straps or bags.

No - when removed correctly, it won’t damage your paint or clear coat. The key is slow removal with gentle heat, not ripping it off cold. Use a hair dryer, start at an edge, keep a low peel angle, and work in small sections. Done properly, removal is safe and clean.

Warm the film until it’s comfortably warm (not scorching), then lift an edge and peel slowly at a low angle. Heat softens the film and makes it release smoothly. Work in small steps: warm → peel a few centimeters → warm again. Don’t rush - steady, controlled peeling gives the cleanest result.

No - it leaves zero glue residue. With gentle heat and slow peeling, the film comes off cleanly. That’s why we recommend using a hair dryer during removal - less resistance, cleaner finish.

Yes. Since the kit is made of separate pieces, you can remove only the worn area (for example the down tube) and leave the rest. Removal is the same process: warm gently with a hair dryer, peel slowly, then replace that single piece if needed.

Sometimes yes - but always check first. If the original factory film is lifting, damaged, or in the way, it’s usually better to remove it so the new kit fits perfectly and edges bond cleanly. If the factory protection is smooth and firmly bonded, you may be able to work with it and integrate it without ugly overlaps. Best rule: inspect the factory film first, then decide whether to remove it or blend it into the new kit.

Because it makes installation dramatically easier. With separate pieces, you can grab one piece, dry-fit it, confirm orientation, and only then install. With big sheets, people often get confused about which piece is which and mistakes are more likely. Separate pieces are clearer, faster, and much less stressful - especially for first-time installers.

Laser cutting lets us deliver the kit as precise, individual pieces you can dry-fit first - place them on the frame without peeling the backing. That means you can confirm position and understand fitment before you commit. The result is cleaner, faster, and much more beginner-friendly. Less guessing, more control.